“Most ponds are built for the relaxing beauty they create. Little maintenance and clean, clear water are part of the enjoyment. The best way to reduce maintenance is good design and proper seasonal care. A properly built pond is largely a self sufficient ecosystem.”
FAQ’s: The 10 most frequently asked questions below deals with a simple ways to reduce maintenance and avoid problems. Solutions to common problems are also presented. We end with A Word About Complete Pond Kits which are designed to reduce maintenance and help you create a natural ecosystem for years of enjoyment.
Buyer Tips: are included to point out pitfalls you can run into.
Pond~A~Rama can help: offers informative literature free for the asking.
[1] What size is my pond?
It is important to know the total gallons of the pond to determine proper filtration, pump size, stocking capacity and dosages for water treatments and fish treatments. To calculate the gallons of water held in a pond, follow a formula for the pond’s shape and measure in average feet, using decimals. For an irregular shaped pond, take the average length and multiply it by the average width and average depth. Then multiply that figure by .8 and then by 7.48 = total pond gallons. If the pond is round, the formula is pi times radius squared times depth times 7.48. (3.14 x radius2 x depth x 7.48 = total gallons). For square or rectangular ponds multiply the average length by the average width and average depth, then multiply that by 7.48 = gallons. If more water is present in the system, such as in a waterfall or a streambed, use the appropriate formula and add that to get the true total.
[2] How do I maintain a healthy pond?
Filtration The most reliable way to achieve clean and clear water while reducing maintenance is with a good filter. Unfiltered water frequently becomes unattractive, dirty, green and chemically out of balance. Large amounts of water (and energy) are wasted cleaning unfiltered ponds as they are scrubbed and drained. Whatever healthy ecosystem exists in an unfiltered pond dies back after the cleaning. There are many approaches to filtering pond water: chemical, phyto (plant), biological, mechanical, and biomechanical. Biomechanical filtration is the most reliable, inexpensive and effective. A biomechanical filter helps protect the pump from clogging, traps debris and grows beneficial bacteria that combat chemical toxins and clear algae. For a filter to perform properly it must run 24 hours a day all season, be properly sized, have good filter media and a turnover rate proportionate to the pond volume. Running the filter throughout the season is important. If the filter is shut down for even 3 hours a massive die off of the beneficial bacteria occurs. This forces the filter to reestablish itself, which can take as long as 4 weeks, and leaves the pond chemistry and clarity uncontrolled. Filter size and media type are also important. They are influenced by a variety of factors including: pond size, filter design, filter media, amount of sunlight, fish quantity and type, desired water clarity and desired cleaning frequency. Rather than looking at every possible variation, let’s make it simple. To achieve a clear, clean pond while only having to clean the filter 2-3 times a year, use a good biomechanical, mat based, filter that holds 7% - 10% of the total volume of pond water. Size counts. The smaller the filter, or ineffective the filter media, the greater the maintenance and lower the control over water quality and clarity. Filter Media is the material that fills the filter chamber. Not all filter media are created equal. Many books still recommend lava rock and gravel, which are outdated due to their high maintenance and large size. Filter mat is the most affordable and better performing. Good filter media provides plenty of surface area for beneficial bacteria to reside while consuming as little space as possible and not clogging or channeling. Among the least effective filter media is gravel and lava rock which channel, clog and require at least 23% of the total volume of pond water to be held. It is an immense chore cleaning rock or gravel filters. Bubble bead biomechanical filters can hold as little as 2% but are expensive. Filter mat should hold 7% - 10%, are economical, resist channeling and compaction and are easy to clean. To assess if a filter is the appropriate size for a pond, calculate its gallons (using a formula from above) and compare it to the overall pond gallons. Is it holding the right percent for the type of media it uses? Most ponds are dramatically under filtered and owners are surprised to realize how large a biomechanical filter needs to be. A filter, if sized right, tends to be large and is not designed to be attractive. They perform a practical function and are easily hidden behind a waterfall, fence, tree, bush, bridge or garage. The years of clean, healthy water they create, and the reduction in maintenance, makes them well worth the onetime creative effort of hiding them.
Buyer Tip: There is a great deal of misinformation and misunderstanding regarding the use of UV systems. Please educate yourself well in advance of shopping for one.
Pond~A~Rama can help. We offer free articles and informative literature for your perusal and if asked will help you determine the right UV for your application. For an in-depth article written by experts about how UV works and how to determine the right size for your application – e-mail your request to UVinfo@pondarama.com
UV (Ultraviolet Clarifiers) are a wonderful way to supplement an undersized biomechanical filter and add 3% - 5% filtration. A UV is a water tight container that houses an ultraviolet bulb. Water is pumped through the unit exposing algae to the VU light, killing it, and sending it on to the biomechanical filter. They are easy to install, extremely effective and, compared to other forms of filtration, very compact. They should NOT be operated without a biomechanical filter. Large systems over 5,000 gallons rely on 3% - 5% biomechanical filtration, a UV and plant supplementation.
*Buyer Tip: some filter manufactures greatly over rate the size pond their submersible filter can clean.
Turn-over Rate refers to how often the total volume of pond water is ‘turned over’ through the filter. The total volume of water in the pond should pass through the filter every 1 to 2 hours. If the water circulates too fast, every 1/2 hour or less, the living beneficial bacteria on the filter media is washed away. If the water circulates too slowly, every 4 hours or less, the beneficial bacteria are deprived of oxygen and die off. The turn over rate must take into account head pressure, friction loss and pipe size.
Pump manufactures provide performance charts however, performance ratings suitable for your particular application should be carefully determined using several factors and not GPH alone. Review the electrical demands of the pump. Inexpensive pumps can cost 4 to 5 times more in electrical operating costs. Centrifugal or non-submersible pumps offer variable speed and great flow rates for minimal energy usage.
*Buyer Tip: Do The Math: Always do your own calculations before accepting advertised operating costs. Typically the lower the amp rate the lower the operating costs. To calculate operating cost use the following formula: (amps x volts divided by 1000) x your KH cost x 24 x 30.4 = operating cost per month. For your KH cost contact your local utility company. High efficiency pumps are higher quality, will last longer, and use less electricity.
Pond~A~Rama can help. We offer free articles and informative literature for your perusal and if asked will help you determine the right pump for your application. For an in-depth article written by experts about pumps and choosing the right pump – e-mail your request to pumpinfo@pondarama.com.
Skimmers & Drains reduce cleaning maintenance. Skimmers, similar to what is seen on hot tubs and swimming pools, pull 85% of debris before it sinks to the pond bottom. Bottom drains are recommended for ponds deeper than 3 feet where the skimmer is less likely to draw the water efficiently. Water drawn from the bottom will pull any settled debris. Skimmers and drains also help regulate pond temperature and can be retrofitted on existing systems.
Under filtration produces symptoms which may include: poor water clarity, sick fish, frequent sludge buildup, requires frequent cleaning, planktonic/pea soup algae, and odor.
Possible solutions include, adding a properly sized filter, replacing or upgrading existing filter media, adding a properly sized UV Clarifier, addition of beneficial bacteria, supplements, flocculants, and finally increase the number of plants so that you have 50-75% surface coverage. Avoid chemical additions as they may mask an inadequate natural system. The goal is to help create a biologically balanced ecosystem. A natural environment which will take care of itself in harmony with nature.
[3] Why Do I need Plants?
Phyto-filtration uses plants to filter pond water. Although plants are an excellent filtration aid, they are not the most stable or effective means for filtering. The main disadvantages include: lack of filtering in the spring and fall when the plants are dormant; expensive for the amount required; consume a large area; do not trap debris; are higher maintenance (trimming, separating, fertilizing and protecting in the winter); do very little to control the most toxic of pond chemicals - ammonia. Despite falling short as the pond’s main filter, plants are an excellent supplement to the filter and beautify the pond. Up to 75% of the pond’s surface should be covered with plants. This reduces evaporation, stabilizes the pond temperature, helps clear the pond water and provides a cool, shaded area for fish. Oxygenating plants have a clearing effect on the water but should NOT stocked heavier than a one gallon pot to 400 gallons of pond water or fish can be deprived of oxygen in the evening hours.
Pond~A~Rama can help. We supply an online plant encyclopedia
See our library section ‘On Aquatic Plants’ http://www.pondarama.com/html/library.html
*Buyer Tip: When accepting free plants be sure you are familiar with the source to avoid introducing disease, parasites, unwanted snails etc. into your pond. Always buy your aquatic plants from a reputable grower or authorized reseller to ensure the plants meet Phyto certification standards. Remember- you get what you pay for. Consider plant kits designed for maximum design impact and suited to your zone.
[4] What about Additives and Treatments?
Water Conditioners are available to remove chlorine, add a protective slime coat to fish and reduce ammonia and heavy metals.
Beneficial Bacteria treatments are an effective and safe way to improve pond health and reduce maintenance.
How does Beneficial Bacteria help?
Beneficial bacteria treatments are an effective and safe way to improve pond health and reduce maintenance. Monthly treatments break down organic debris, reduce vacuuming and filter cleanings and help control chemistry.
*Buyer Tip: Beneficial bacteria is only effective in systems that have aerated water.
Does Beneficial Bacteria Benefit my Fish? Some beneficial bacteria help protect fish from getting sick by reducing the presence of harmful pathogens.
What can I do about Planktonic Algae? (Pea soup water) Beneficial Bacteria - Beneficial bacteria treatments reduce planktonic algae.
What about Blanket Weed? (A.K.A. string, hair, beard & filamentous algae.) Slimy clumps or long stringy “sea weed” strands that float or attach to plants, rocks, and liner may be treated by a product labeled “Balance”, safe for use with plants and fish and effectively kills off blanket weed.
How can I reduce Cloudiness?
Flocculent, or coagulating agents, gather free floating particulate for the biomechanical filter to break down. They work within a few days.
*Buyer Tip: Pond~A~Rama recommends the use of Beneficial Bacteria as explained above but we strongly encourage you to avoid toxic chemicals harmful to the environment.
[5] What about Evaporation?
Ponds require occasional topping off losing water to evaporation. This chore can be alleviated with auto-fill mechanisms that add small amounts of water reducing large refills that require chlorine treatments. The difference between a leak and evaporation can usually be determined by how fast water drops. However, this can be tricky since evaporation rates vary by geographic region and pond design. Deeper ponds with smaller water features and good plant coverage on the surface have lower evaporation rates. In the average pond expect to lose approximately 8” a month in the hot season.
[6] Do I need water changes if I keep it topped off?
Ponds benefit from occasional water changes. Topping a pond off after water has evaporated is not the same as changing the water since evaporation leaves behind its impurities. Change no more than 20% of the water at a time. Condition new water to add a protective slime coat on fish and remove chlorine and heavy metals. Ideally, 10% of the water should be changed each month from April through October. At the least, change 15% - 20% of the water once or twice over a 2 - 3 week period in late September to early October. When water temperatures drop below 55 degrees Fahrenheit avoid water changes.
[7] How do I care for my Biomechanical filter?
A properly sized biomechanical filter requires cleaning two to three times a year. Smaller filters require more frequent cleaning. Do not over clean the biomechanical-filter. Living beneficial bacteria on the filter media helps the filter work. Aggressive cleaning kills beneficial bacteria and interferes with filter performance. When possible, use water from the pond to clean off the pads and then promptly return them to the filter. Use of chlorinated water, hot water, cold water, chemicals or drying when cleaning filter media kills beneficial bacteria and cripples the filter’s ability to cope with toxins in the water. If filters go too long without cleaning they build up debris and choke back performance.
[8] Winter & Spring Equipment Care
Most systems are shut down in the winter. To avoid freeze damage disconnect the UV and store it indoors. Although not as critical, the life span of submersible pumps can benefit from being disconnected, cleaned and stored indoors. Drain plumbing lines. Beneficial bacteria on the filter pads die in the winter. Thoroughly clean of the pads at this time is recommended. Drain the filter. If fish are present and you run the pond in the winter, raise the pump intake to reduce circulating the deeper/warmer water where the fish hibernate. In the winter when ice forms on the pond, keep a hole in the ice for gas exchange (see “fish care”).
[9] What do I do with my Fish this winter?
Although requirements vary by geographic area and fish type, with care fish can safely winter-over outside. Once water temperature falls below 50 degrees Fahrenheit the fish go dormant. The pond must be at least 18’ deep for goldfish and 24” deep for koi for most of the country. *Please check with your local extension service for local Zone requirements. To avoid suffocating the fish it is absolutely essential to keep an area free from ice. For ponds 30’ or deeper, a Winterizing Kit will provide adequate air. The kit includes a small air pump and weighted tubing that circulates the deeper and warmer water to the surface where it released. For ponds less than 30’ deep, a deicer will keep the area open for gas exchange. Other options include: constructing a mini green house over the pond; floating partially filled Plastic milk containers that capture the suns rays and defrosting the surrounding area; floating Styrofoam on the pond surface helps keep water warmer (careful which type, some are toxic to fish and plants); run an aerator.
Also important to fish is the removal of decomposing debris. Vacuum debris off the bottom of the pond in the fall (see ‘water changes’ for amounts). If the pond is run throughout the winter reduce pump flow and/or raise the intake to mid-level or higher. Many people find that an end-of-the-season medicated food treatment is often times helpful in controlling various harmful bacterial and fungal growths. Don’t feed too much or the wrong type of food in the fall as their metabolism slows and they cannot properly digest it. In the spring culture the pond with beneficial nitrifying bacteria and only feed your fish spring formulated fish food after the water is consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Clean the pond of debris collected over the winter. Monitor fish behavior and watch for fish disease. They are particularly susceptible in the spring. Common symptoms include: listlessness, loss of appetite, gasping for air at the surface, red sores, blood on the fins or mouth, white cottony growths, white dots or specks on the fish, fish scrapes its side as though trying to scratch itself, fins clamped down, discoloration and sitting at the pond bottom or separate from other fish. Increased aeration should be supplied. It is not recommended to cull out or otherwise disturb the fish as they are in their most vulnerable condition at this time.
[10] Plant Maintenance
To increase growth and blooms use low nitrogen aquatic plant fertilizer regularly. The sooner your plants establish themselves the sooner they will use up nutrients otherwise available to algae. After 2 years plants may require re-potting and will benefit from early division. Fertilizing in late fall is not recommended and should be eliminated during winter. Before the first hard frost, trim winter hardy plants to the top of the soil and lower below freezing, lower bog plants 8”-10” below water from the lip of the pot, 10”-36” below for lilies & lotus). Allow lotus to die back before lowering. If plant roots freeze, the plant generally dies. Remove tropical plants before the first frost and trim the leaves to the top of the pot. Plants such as papyrus, water poppy, taro, lizard tail and tropical lilies should be placed in a paper bad in a cool dark area and watered once a month. They can also be enjoyed indoors all winter. In early April place them in a pot of water in a sunny window and after the first frost return them to the pond. Other tropical plants, such as umbrella palm, canna, lettuce & hyacinth, should be placed in a sunny window in a pot of water at least 2 weeks before the first frost. Return them to the pond after all danger of a late frost. Consult a plant care book for specific instructions and to determine the frost dates in your zone. When temperatures rise above 45 degrees Fahrenheit and most the ice has melted, marginal/bog plants may be placed within 4” of the water’s surface. Trim dead plant matter that may remain.
A Word about pond Kits
Pond Kits: These popular kits eliminate the time and guesswork of assembling a pond package. Complete pond kits include everything you need to build a beautiful fish pond or water garden. Everything in the kit is designed and sized to work together. Once installed these ponds will provide years of enjoyment.
*Buyer Tip: When shopping for complete pond kits – be sure you are buying an Authentic Pond Kit. Many merchants advertise famous name brand pond kits for less but change out parts of the kit with less expensive components than those offered by legitimate resellers and distributors.
Pond~A~Rama can help. We supply detailed information comparing the components and benefits each system offers. Choose a package that suits your needs or you can create your pond any size and with any extras you wish, these kits can be customized. If asked we will help you determine which Kit is right for your application. If necessary our experts will design a custom pond kit using approved components sized to work to your custom specifications. For information about Pond Kits by Aquascape, PondSweep Manufacturing and others e-mail your request to PondKitInfo@pondarama.com
We hope this information has been helpful.
Best Regards,
